Hatching & Incubation

Successful hatching starts long before eggs go into the incubator. It starts with healthy, well-conditioned parent stock and proper egg handling from collection to lockdown.

Egg Collection & Storage

Collect eggs at least twice daily. Store them pointy-end down at 55–65°F with 70–75% humidity. Eggs can be stored for up to 7 days before incubation without significant hatch rate decline. Beyond 7 days, fertility drops roughly 1% per day. If storing longer than 3 days, tilt eggs 45° twice daily to prevent the yolk from sticking to the membrane.

Incubation Parameters

Silkie eggs incubate for 20–21 days under standard conditions. Target temperature is 99.5°F in a forced-air incubator or 101.5°F in a still-air (measured at the top of the eggs). Humidity during days 1–18 should be 40–50% (wet bulb 82–86°F). At lockdown (day 18), raise humidity to 65–70% and stop turning.

Turn eggs a minimum of 3 times daily (odd numbers so the egg doesn’t rest on the same side two nights in a row). Automatic turners simplify this. Candle at days 7 and 14 to check development — remove any clears or early quitters to prevent bacterial contamination.

Hatch Day & Brooding

Don’t open the incubator during hatch — humidity drops kill pipped chicks. Let chicks dry fully (4–6 hours after hatch) before moving to the brooder. Brooder temperature starts at 95°F under the heat source, reduced by 5°F per week until chicks are fully feathered (around 6–8 weeks for Silkies, which feather slower than standard breeds).

Incubation Quick Reference

Parameter	Value
Incubation Period	20–21 days
Forced-Air Temp	99.5°F
Still-Air Temp	101.5°F (top of eggs)
Humidity (Days 1–18)	40–50%
Humidity (Lockdown)	65–70%
Turning	3× daily minimum (odd numbers)
Candling	Days 7 and 14
Lockdown	Day 18 — stop turning
Brooder Start Temp	95°F, reduce 5°F/week
Full Feathering	6–8 weeks (slower than standard)

Troubleshooting Common Hatch Issues

Low hatch rate with good fertility?

Check humidity first — Silkie eggs tend to need slightly higher humidity than standard breeds because of their porous shells. Also verify your thermometer calibration. A half-degree off for 21 days compounds significantly.

Chicks pipping but not hatching (dead in shell)?

This is almost always a humidity problem at lockdown. When humidity drops during hatch, the membrane dries and shrink-wraps the chick. Resist the urge to open the incubator. If you must intervene, do it quickly and only for chicks that have been stuck for 24+ hours after initial pip.

Shipped eggs with poor results?

Let shipped eggs rest pointy-end down for 12–24 hours at room temperature before setting. The air cell detaches during shipping and needs time to re-settle. Don’t incubate eggs that arrived with visible cracks or severely detached air cells — they won’t hatch and can contaminate the incubator.